Tips for choosing the right eyelash extension length

Eyelash extension length is one of the most important things to consider when it comes to eyelash extensions, and as lash artists it’s recommended that you’ve equipped yourself with all the available, relevant information regarding this topic.

Understanding lash extension lengths is taking the first step towards answering the question of how to choose the right eyelashes for your clients! An eyelash extension length is more important than you think—sometimes they are directly related to weight, and choosing the wrong length can do unexpected harm to the clients’ natural lashes.

There are a wide variety of lengths available to choose from. The issue is certainly not one of lack of choice, but rather choosing between multitudes of choices! Lash extension lengths typically vary from 9 mm to 15 mm for most salons, and they usually specify the weights as well.

From this we can divide the methods of choosing the right eyelash extension length into two: the first based on the client’s own natural lashes; the second based on the lash styles.

Lash extension length based on the client's natural lashes

There are two general rules to consider when choosing the right eyelash extension length to fit with your clients’ natural lashes.

Firstly, only choose a length that is no longer than the clients’ own natural lashes by more than 2–3 mm. This is to ensure proper retention and that the natural lashes won’t break under their own weight. For example, there are lengths that even go up to 20 mm! This length will trump the client’s natural lashes and make them too heavy, easier to break. Consequently, heavy lashes tend to cause more strain on the lash follicle and stunt regrowth. 

Secondly—and this is just as important—match the diameter to the natural lashes of the client. This is the same as choosing the right eyelash extension length to match the client’s existing lashes. Both of these rules should be followed in order not to do unexpected damage to natural lashes.

In short, look carefully at the length and diameter of the eyelashes and compare them to the client’s own to reach a decision on the right eyelash extension chosen for the application. 

Besides the two rules, we have some general rules in regard to what constitutes a long, short or medium eyelash extension. Usually it goes like this: short (6–11 mm); medium (10–14 mm); long (14–22 mm). Yes, “long” eyelash extensions can even go up to 22 mm in length, and sometimes more.

Categorizing eyelashes into sections can help hasten the process and make your life as a lash artist easier. It will help you to determine right away, as you get better with your eyes, what type of lash extension lengths are most suitable for your client as soon as they walk in.

Lash styles are created via choosing correctly, in all cases. The idea in both cases is always to enhance the client’s natural lashes without drowning their uniqueness.

Lash extension length based on the lash styles

As has been mentioned, choosing the right eyelash extension length based on the lash styles also already takes into account the client’s natural lashes. This is where we make compromises by following our client’s wishes as well as making it so that the procedure won’t harm the client’s own natural lashes.

Usually, most clients go for lashes with a length of around 11-13 mm, as natural lashes tend to have lengths around that as well. This will provide certainly an improved look but not so extraordinary that they become too drastic.

But a lot of other times, our clients will indeed want something drastic! This is where you have to analyze and make decisions for them. Do their natural lashes have the right thicknesses and lengths to support a dramatic extension? Usually this varies from case to case, so this will largely depend on the situation and the client, and there’s no universal way to proceed. 

Usually, naturally long, thick lashes can hold up longer extensions, while shorter lashes are more suitable for shorter extensions. Clients and lash artists alike typically decide on something in the middle. But if a dramatic look is what both sides are going for, so be it! Of course, you will have to be careful about retention and durability of the lash extensions, but the client’s own wishes are important as well. 

The general rule of thumb is to listen to your clients and form your decisions from there. Do they want something full, or subtle? The longer the extensions are compared to the natural lashes, the wispier they will become. Shorter ones will have a different effect in that they will give the clients a fuller, darker look. 

Essentially, it’s all about what the client desires and what you can do with the available resources and experience regarding lash extension lengths to determine the correct style, and how best to apply that style!