How to customize lash styles to your clients 

Every client is different from one another - we all know that. That’s why custom is so important before any lashing procedure. We need to learn the client’s eye shape and their natural lashes’ to decide which lash extension styles and lash curl to use. To make it simpler for you, here’s a basic and simple process that allows you to custom and provide the most suitable lash set for your clients.

The basic custom process

Step 1: Determine their face shape

Before mapping out eyelash extensions, you need to learn their face shape since it plays a big role on how the extensions will appear. Based on the shapes, you can decide the lash styles that hide the disadvantages and show more on the good patterns. 

If your clients have long or narrow faces, they are suitable for wide, side-swept lash maps. Those who own short, round faces will look better with upward lashes. For a round face, the extensions should be in an angular shape while a square face will need to be added a more rounded pattern. 

Step 2: Examine their eye type and natural lashes

This step will help you understand their natural look and decide the right type of custom eyelash extensions. When you learn well about their natural lashes, you can also decide which curl to use on them.

For example, J and B curls are perfect for those who want a natural look while a C curl gives more glamour. C is also great for adding length, volume, and curl, while CC and D curls offer a dramatic look. You can read our detailed guide on eyelash extensions curls to understand deeper about each type of curl.

The eye lid and angle are also important in the process. Clients with monolid will need natural curl extensions to help lift the lash line. On the other hand, hood-eyed clients will be suitable with high curl extensions to have their eyes open up.

The bottom line is to make the final style look balanced and flatter your clients’ beauty. 

Step 3: Choose the lash type

There are two popular lash types out there for you to consider: synthetic mink and synthetic silk. 

Synthetic silk extensions, will give a bold look with semi-matte satin finish, just like a swipe of mascara. Whereas, synthetic mink lashes provide a light, feathered and matte look. 

LLBA Professional provides various types of lash extensions that you can choose from. We have high-quality super mink lash line and prosilk promade fans for any purpose. 

LLBA’s Suppermink and Promade Fans

LLBA’s Suppermink and Promade Fans

Step 4: Mapping lash

Once you’ve figured out your client’s face and eye shape, you can start the lash map that suits them. There is more than one way to do lash mapping and the two most popular types are open eye map and feline map. So what’s the difference? 

The open eye map is the technique of applying the longest extensions in line with the client’s pupil in the centre. The rest will be gradually shorter towards the outer and inner of their natural lash line. 

In the feline lash map, you take a line from the outside of the client’s nose through their iris and to the arch in the brow and place the longest eyelash extension there. With this technique you can create different styles of map such as Squirrel lash map, Cat lash map, or Kitten lash map. They will all bring different looks.

How to custom lash styles for different eye shapes

There are so many types of eye shapes and deciding which lash styles to use for one is not an easy job, especially for new lash techs. In this part, we will discuss some common eye shapes and how lash artists can custom the right lash styles for their clients. 

Almond Shaped Eyes

This is the easiest shape of eyes to work with. Women who own almond shaped eyes can wear most types of eyelash extensions.

Close-set eyes

Women with close-set eyes need to emphasize the corners of their eyes so lash styles such as cat eye eyelash extensions will be the best for them.

Wide-set eyes

Those who have wide-set eyes can wear most types of eyelash extensions except the cat styles.

Down Turned Eyes

Down turned eyed ladies will look best in glam eyelash styles.

Deep-set eyes

With deep-set eyes, you will want to add more lengths to draw out the eye.

Protruding eyes

Women with protruding eyes will look best using shorter extensions to add balance.


Hopefully this guide will be helpful for you to custom lash extension styles and find the perfect lash map for each of your clients. Follow these steps and you will save a lot of time before the next lashing appointment.