As lash artists, we all know how important the preparation process is to effecting the right look for your client. It’s knowing how to choose the right eyelashes and how to apply them that really makes the difference.
For both clients and lash artists alike, choosing the right lash for a lash set is taking the first step towards a successful application. Of course the skills of the artists as well as the quality of the products used are important as well, but none of this matters if you choose the wrong kind of lash in the first place.
How to choose the right eyelashes is something that many ask, but because it’s very situational and dependent on the contexts there are varying answers. We’re here to provide a detailed guide so that you can better get a sense of how things work and how to decide when the situation calls for it.
Personal taste is one of the first things you should note when it comes down to it. In the end, it’s our client’s wishes that really matter. Do they want something subtle? Fluffier? Fuller? Or are they seeking a very dramatic look?
Make sure to communicate loud and clear with your clients so that both sides can reach a final decision on how to proceed. Remember to not just yield to any request, however. Sometimes we have to put our expertise at the forefront and put a stop to demands that not only seem unfair to you as the practitioner but to the client themselves as well (for example, sometimes clients will want extensions that are really “out there”).
That being said, in the end, if the client so wishes it and you feel like you can fulfill that wish, then so be it. Remember to keep open communications and consult with your client should any problem arise.
Choosing the right dimension for your lash extensions is crucial to creating a look that satisfies both the client and the artist. For a classic eyelash set, we have the recommended classic lashes size, which is 1D (meaning a 1:1 ratio, with only one extension being applied to one single natural lash). This is good for when the client wants a natural look and has full natural lashes.
3D eyelashes, 5D eyelashes, 6D eyelashes are called volume lash extensions. These are good for when clients are seeking something a little more dramatic and fluffier in order to frame their eyes, generating a stunning look, but is lightweight enough that they do not break the natural lashes. If the client has relatively sparse lashes, extensions such as 3D eyelash extensions, 5D eyelash extensions and 6D eyelash extensions are ideal.
However, sometimes our clients will want a really dramatic look, that’s when we break out 10D extensions and up. These are saved for when you want to create an appearance that steals the breath away.
There are a couple things you should note before choosing the right length for your client. First, it’s knowing how to assess your client’s natural lashes. Remember not to choose a length that’s longer than your client’s natural lashes by more than 2–3 mm. Too long and the natural lashes might break under the weight.
Good retention is required, and lash extensions being functional but lightweight will prove beneficial for any type of natural lashes. The longer the extension, the heavier it is. So as you can see, as the length is correlated to the weight, you’re pretty much choosing both factors in one go.
You can choose the length after deciding on a lash style as well. For example, most clients choose lashes with 11–13 mm length, as this length tends to be of equal value to that of the natural lashes. The client will receive a more attractive, standout look while not being too dramatic to become the center of attention.
That being said, you still have to make lots of compromises, and if the chosen lash style is really “out there”, try your best to choose one with good retention and durability to balance things out.
The thickness of the lash extension refers to its diameter, a factor that is as important as the length, if not more in some situations. However, deciding on a correct diameter is relatively easy.
Before choosing, you should first take specific measurements of your client’s natural lashes. Afterwards, choose lash extensions with diameters that match that of the natural lashes.
Sometimes you can get thicker extensions if you’re going for drama, but don’t overdo it since the diameter, like the length, is related to the weight as well. The thicker the extension, the heavier it is—and the more risks of brittlement there are.