Depending on your eye shape, the type of curls that you use will likely be very different.
When it comes to the question of how to choose the right lashes for your eye shape, there are many aspects to consider. Not only do eye shapes vary, every client’s situation is also different, and the lashes themselves vary so much in terms of lengths, thickness and curl that it’s very difficult to proceed without a proper guide.
In this article, we will explain in detail the eye shape with lash extensions. Curls are important and can make a difference in the look.
So how do you find lashes that match your client’s eye shape? Let’s start by considering the different eye shapes out there.
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Almond eyes are possibly the most common eye shape out there. This is sometimes called the “universal eye shape”, and this generally means that most types of lash extensions and curls can fit well with this eye shape. Most lash artists feel great when a client with almond-shaped eyes walks in, since the artist can basically use any curl or length in that case, so long as the natural lashes can support it.
When it comes to almond eyes, just about any curl will work excellently. The thing to focus on for this eye shape is actually the client’s own preferences and desires, and the quality of their existing natural lashes. For us as lash artists, it’s a good chance to be creative and work on your combinations.
Hooded eyes or eyes with single lids are also called monolid eyes. For this eye shape, since there is no visible eyelid, most lash extensions are used so as to create the appearance of wide and large eyes.
It’s our job as lash artists to open up the eyes and make the lash line look less heavy, which tends to happen with monolid eye shapes. You can use curly extensions, but be more specific about it—some strong curls such as CC curls and D curls might be overdoing it and result in an unnatural look.
Instead, opt for more specialised curls such as M curls, L or L+ curls. These curls will develop past the lid’s hood before curling up through the middle and tip of the lash. These curls as mentioned all feature a straight base, which helps in easy application and goes well with the natural lashes, since they will provide comfort for your client as well as a stronger bond for the long term.
If applied successfully and carefully, the final outcome will be that the client’s eyes will appear much fuller and wider. The rule of thumb is to choose a curl that adds drama and openness to the client’s looks without weighing their natural lashes down, adding to the heaviness.
Round eyes are generally determined by how wide they are compared to their roundness. If the client’s eyes are just as wide as they are round, then they have rounded eyes. This eye shape naturally appears bright, but if you apply the wrong lashes (and consequently the wrong curls), they can seem permanently confused or surprised instead.
The goal for this eye shape is to gear it towards the almond shape, in order to soften the eye. To do this, you can use the longest lash extensions to create the effect, and balance them with softer curls so that the eyes don’t pop too much.
Basically, for round eyes, you will want the length, or your focus, contracted on the outer corners so as to draw out the eyes, thereby producing the illusion of an almond eye shape. Absolutely avoid very strong curls since they can make your client look frightened! Instead, a dramatic but not drastic curl such as the C curl or B curl will do well to complement this type of eye shape.
There are some other eye shapes that are also worth mentioning. Although we don’t stumble upon these eye shapes too often, it’s essential for us as lash artists to know all of the necessary information about them.
One of those is the deep-set eye shape. Clients with this eye shape usually have eyes quite farther back in the skull. For this eye shape, it’s recommended that you use looser curls and longer lengths to highlight the eyes, instead of curls with shorter lengths.
For downturned eyes, the outer corners of this eye shape tend to position lower than the inner corners. In this situation, you should use curls with great lift, or a combination of them, such as mixing C with CC curls. Generally speaking a lash lift works well in most situations too.
Wide-set eyes are pretty similar to almond eyes in that most curls will work quite well, but the difference is that you should go longer in the center and balance it out by adding shorter curls in the outer corners.
Usually the less common eye shapes will depend a lot on your intuition and expertise. Communicate with your clients clearly and make sure that they’re satisfied every step of the way!